Why use a good brush?
A high quality brush is very important in order to get a professional looking paint job. A good brush will: hold more paint, hold the paint better (without dripping), leave fewer brush strokes, cut a straighter line, last longer, and clean up better. Many people don't want to spend much money on a brush and buy a cheap one instead. What they aren't thinking of is that a good brush can last for years, and a poor brush may last only a couple of jobs.
What kind of pole should I get?
Painting poles are made from several types of material: plastic, wood, metal, fiberglass. I prefer the fiberglass poles because I find them lighter and stronger than the other varieties.
When choosing the length of the pole you want to make sure to purchase one that is not too long or too short. I typically use a pole which adjust from 3' to 6'. Although, given the varieties of jobs I find myself in I also carry along a 8'-16' pole and a 2'-4' pole.
When choosing the length of the pole you want to make sure to purchase one that is not too long or too short. I typically use a pole which adjust from 3' to 6'. Although, given the varieties of jobs I find myself in I also carry along a 8'-16' pole and a 2'-4' pole.
What is backrolling and how can it help me?
Backrolling is a process that consists of taking a damp but not soaking wet roller and re-rolling the entire wall you just painted while it is still damp.
Here is how to do it:
Start by painting your wall and you can use any style of rolling the paint on that you want.
Once the wall is painted but still damp to the touch, start at the end of the wall you started on first and get your roller slightly damp in the paint pan.
Now, you will simply start at the top near the ceiling and make one smooth sweep down the wall and end as close to the baseboard as possible.
Continue to do this the entire lenght of the wall, and try to remember to overlap your roller lines as you go.
This method will truly give you excellent results. It helps to assure proper paint coverage on the wall and minimizes roller marks and trails that you would typically see when the wall dries.
Here is how to do it:
Start by painting your wall and you can use any style of rolling the paint on that you want.
Once the wall is painted but still damp to the touch, start at the end of the wall you started on first and get your roller slightly damp in the paint pan.
Now, you will simply start at the top near the ceiling and make one smooth sweep down the wall and end as close to the baseboard as possible.
Continue to do this the entire lenght of the wall, and try to remember to overlap your roller lines as you go.
This method will truly give you excellent results. It helps to assure proper paint coverage on the wall and minimizes roller marks and trails that you would typically see when the wall dries.
What sheen should I use?
Here is a general breakdown of the sheens:
Flat: excellent for walls especially if the walls are rough or has blemishes (drywall joints) flat paint hides imperfections and does give a nice looking finish. Flat paint is the easiest to apply and you will get a nice even looking finish when dry. Flat paint also touches up the best. Flat paint unfortunately does not wash well and scuffs more easily. Always use flat on ceilings (except in bathrooms and maybe kitchens) and never use flat on trim.
Matte: has a bit more sheen than flat making it slighly more washable and scuff resistant. Great on walls. Very similar in most ways to flat paint.
Satin/Eg-Shell: these sheens are not identical but very close. For most paint companies Eg-Shell has a bit more sheen than Satin, although the difference is minimal. Very durable paint to light washing and scuffing. Great in almost any room due to it's happy medium type properties (washable yet easy to apply and a nice finish). Can be used on trim if you don't want shiny trim. Does show more imperfections than flat paint and is harder to touch up well.
Semi/Gloss: Normally used on trim and doors. Shiny, scuff resistant coating. Easy to wash up. Shows any and all imperfections and does not touch up much at all. Use sparingly on walls, only on kitchen or bath walls.
Gloss: typically only used on door, railings, and trim. Very high sheen with nice leveling properties (brush and roller marks are almost non existen when applied properly and a good quality gloss paint is used).
Flat: excellent for walls especially if the walls are rough or has blemishes (drywall joints) flat paint hides imperfections and does give a nice looking finish. Flat paint is the easiest to apply and you will get a nice even looking finish when dry. Flat paint also touches up the best. Flat paint unfortunately does not wash well and scuffs more easily. Always use flat on ceilings (except in bathrooms and maybe kitchens) and never use flat on trim.
Matte: has a bit more sheen than flat making it slighly more washable and scuff resistant. Great on walls. Very similar in most ways to flat paint.
Satin/Eg-Shell: these sheens are not identical but very close. For most paint companies Eg-Shell has a bit more sheen than Satin, although the difference is minimal. Very durable paint to light washing and scuffing. Great in almost any room due to it's happy medium type properties (washable yet easy to apply and a nice finish). Can be used on trim if you don't want shiny trim. Does show more imperfections than flat paint and is harder to touch up well.
Semi/Gloss: Normally used on trim and doors. Shiny, scuff resistant coating. Easy to wash up. Shows any and all imperfections and does not touch up much at all. Use sparingly on walls, only on kitchen or bath walls.
Gloss: typically only used on door, railings, and trim. Very high sheen with nice leveling properties (brush and roller marks are almost non existen when applied properly and a good quality gloss paint is used).
When to use a primer?
You should use a primer in the following situations:
1. When applying an extremely deep color such as red colors
2. When applying paint over smoke or water stains
3. When applying paint over new drywall
4. When painting over bare wood, plastics, or metals
5. Normally when switching from a latex top coat to an oil top coat or vice versa
6. When painting over any possible glue residue from removing wallpaper
7. When painting over murals or stencils
8. When painting over wallpaper
1. When applying an extremely deep color such as red colors
2. When applying paint over smoke or water stains
3. When applying paint over new drywall
4. When painting over bare wood, plastics, or metals
5. Normally when switching from a latex top coat to an oil top coat or vice versa
6. When painting over any possible glue residue from removing wallpaper
7. When painting over murals or stencils
8. When painting over wallpaper
Can I use old Paint?
Absolutely! I have used plenty of paint that was sitting around for years. Hopefully, the can was sealed tightly when it was originally closed up. Here are some tips for using old paint:
1. Stir the paint up very thoroughly! The paint should have a smooth consistency when you are done, with no gunk stuck on the bottom. If you are unable to get the paint to this consistency then take the can to a local paint store and see if they will shake it for you. If the paint is still solid or has a lot of gunk on the bottom then it’s probably time to get rid of it.
2. If the paint has a pretty good consistency after stirring but has a few large or small chunks, that’s no problem. Go to your local paint store and pick up a one gallon strainer and ask for a new paint can with lid (the store may or may not charge for the can and lid). Then have someone hold the strainer above the new can while you pour the old chunky paint through it. Make sure to write on the outside of the new can with a magic marker what color and type of paint it is. Then discard the old can and strainer. There you go, fresh smooth paint!
1. Stir the paint up very thoroughly! The paint should have a smooth consistency when you are done, with no gunk stuck on the bottom. If you are unable to get the paint to this consistency then take the can to a local paint store and see if they will shake it for you. If the paint is still solid or has a lot of gunk on the bottom then it’s probably time to get rid of it.
2. If the paint has a pretty good consistency after stirring but has a few large or small chunks, that’s no problem. Go to your local paint store and pick up a one gallon strainer and ask for a new paint can with lid (the store may or may not charge for the can and lid). Then have someone hold the strainer above the new can while you pour the old chunky paint through it. Make sure to write on the outside of the new can with a magic marker what color and type of paint it is. Then discard the old can and strainer. There you go, fresh smooth paint!
What is VOC?
VOC Definition- Volatile organic compounds (VOCs) are emitted as gases from certain solids or liquids. VOCs include a variety of chemicals, some of which may have short- and long-term adverse health effects
Why use a good roller and how to pick one?
You want to pick a good roller for the following reasons: it will leave a much better finish, holds more paint thereby making the job go faster, and won't leave fuzz behind on your wet wall.
When choosing a roller cover I prefer to go with a brand I know and trust such as: Purdy White Dove, Purdy Golden Eagle and Sherwin Williams Contractor Series or 50/50.
When choosing a roller cover I prefer to go with a brand I know and trust such as: Purdy White Dove, Purdy Golden Eagle and Sherwin Williams Contractor Series or 50/50.
What type of dropcloth?
Choosing a drop cloth can be a daunting choice with all of the varieties available at any given paint store. For most people a canvas drop cloth is best, if you are going to be walking on it, and a plastic drop cloth works great for covering furniture or taping across open doorways. I have also found the canvas dropcloth with the Butyl (rubber) backing to work extremely well.
Plastic drop cloths are typically use and toss while canvas can be used, washed, and re-used for years.
Plastic drop cloths are typically use and toss while canvas can be used, washed, and re-used for years.
How to clean paint off my floor or furniture.
Ahhhh! So some paint landed on the floor or furniture. Now what? Use these tips for guidance: (remember- whenever you use cleaning solutions on any surface, always test the solution on a non obvious part to assure it won't damage the surface)
1. Wood floor/pergo/tile: if it's a lot of paint simply use towels, paper towels, or anything else to get the majority of the paint up. Next get a towel and some warm water and scrub the affected area. Finally, most people find that using a standard floor cleaning product or wood floor/finish product will get any remaining stain up. For tile floors do the same thing and the only difference is that you will want to scrub any spots of paint that may have gotten on your tile grout until you get down to fresh grout. This sounds weird but works just fine. A fine piece of sandpaper can also remove the paint from the grout.
2. Carpet: It's a pain to clean paint out of carpet, however it can be done. First you need to soak up as much paint as possible. Then, get warm water and several towels or rags and go to town. Usually this will get most of the stain out. Finally, make sure to keep the affected area damp since dried paint is even harder to get out, and use whichever carpet cleaning solution you prefer. If this still does not get the stain out then I suggest you keep the area damp with warm water until a professional cleaner can come take care of it for you.
3. Overspray on furniture or other items: When rolling you will undoubtedly get some tiny specks of paint on furniture or something else you forgot to move or cover. Typically a damp rag will take these specks up for you. For wood surfaces you can use a pledge type product.
1. Wood floor/pergo/tile: if it's a lot of paint simply use towels, paper towels, or anything else to get the majority of the paint up. Next get a towel and some warm water and scrub the affected area. Finally, most people find that using a standard floor cleaning product or wood floor/finish product will get any remaining stain up. For tile floors do the same thing and the only difference is that you will want to scrub any spots of paint that may have gotten on your tile grout until you get down to fresh grout. This sounds weird but works just fine. A fine piece of sandpaper can also remove the paint from the grout.
2. Carpet: It's a pain to clean paint out of carpet, however it can be done. First you need to soak up as much paint as possible. Then, get warm water and several towels or rags and go to town. Usually this will get most of the stain out. Finally, make sure to keep the affected area damp since dried paint is even harder to get out, and use whichever carpet cleaning solution you prefer. If this still does not get the stain out then I suggest you keep the area damp with warm water until a professional cleaner can come take care of it for you.
3. Overspray on furniture or other items: When rolling you will undoubtedly get some tiny specks of paint on furniture or something else you forgot to move or cover. Typically a damp rag will take these specks up for you. For wood surfaces you can use a pledge type product.
What about colors?
I will touch briefly on color and make a few general suggestions. Color is ultimately the choice of you, the painter. Remember, you can always re-paint if you are not happy with a color.
1. If you want a warm feeling then go with earthtones. Most paint stores now have swatches of earthtones.
Warm browns, greens, golds, etc. really make your place feel inviting.
2. Red! Everyone wants a red wall or room, but choosing a good red is usually difficult. Ask for the paint store clerk's opinion on what other customers have ended up going with. Rule of thumb: find a red that you like then go one step richer. Most people find that the red they originally like is to bright on their walls.
3. Dark colors look great on doors. Don't be afraid to experiment with black, dark blues and greens, and even reds for your front door. It normally looks great.
4. Dark colors tend to make a room look smaller and light colors make a room look larger. You can get away with darker colors more often, if you have a lot of natural light.
5. Yellows and pastels tend to fade more quickly outdoors.
6. Not sure of what color to paint the trim in the room but you don't want white? Choose a color in the same color family as the shade on the wall (many times on the same swatch as the room color) and 2 to 3 shades lighter.
1. If you want a warm feeling then go with earthtones. Most paint stores now have swatches of earthtones.
Warm browns, greens, golds, etc. really make your place feel inviting.
2. Red! Everyone wants a red wall or room, but choosing a good red is usually difficult. Ask for the paint store clerk's opinion on what other customers have ended up going with. Rule of thumb: find a red that you like then go one step richer. Most people find that the red they originally like is to bright on their walls.
3. Dark colors look great on doors. Don't be afraid to experiment with black, dark blues and greens, and even reds for your front door. It normally looks great.
4. Dark colors tend to make a room look smaller and light colors make a room look larger. You can get away with darker colors more often, if you have a lot of natural light.
5. Yellows and pastels tend to fade more quickly outdoors.
6. Not sure of what color to paint the trim in the room but you don't want white? Choose a color in the same color family as the shade on the wall (many times on the same swatch as the room color) and 2 to 3 shades lighter.
How to properly store paint?
Paint that is in a tightly sealed can, can and will last many years. I have used paint that is 10 years old and after a quick stir is just as good as the day it was purchased. The trick is to make sure the can is sealed properly. Before sealing a can of paint be sure to wipe out the lip of the can where the lid snaps into. This will make sure that the lid pries off easily next time you need to use that can of paint. Next, take a rubber mallet and firmly tap around the edge of the lid until it is firmly in place. Some other tips to ensure the longevity of a can of paint: Use a wide blade to take the lid off a can of paint, small screwdriver heads will pry the lid off but usually tear the lip up in the process. A torn up lid lip will allow air into the can and destroy the paint. Using the wide blade of a putty knife or a paint can key ( a cheap tool given away for free at most paint stores) will minimize damage to the lid. Also, make sure to keep you paint in a dry area. If the cans get wet they will rust through.
How to dispose of old paint?
This was one of the most popular questions when I worked in a paint store and when I was a contractor. The answer depends on your local municipality. For many municipalities around the country (including mine) you are allowed to throw away old paint in the trash as long as it is no longer a liquid. The paint has to be dried out completely before you can throw it away. There are several ways to dry out paint quickly. If you have an empty corner of your garage, shed, or a dry basement, then you can simply take the lids off and wait for them to dry out. Other options are to mix old kitty litter or sawdust into the paint, this will dry them out very quickly. Always be sure to find out what the local rule is about disposing of paint. Sometimes the rules regarding properly disposing of latex paint are different than those for oil paints. Your local paint store should be able to give you direction in this matter.
What is the proper way to spraypaint?
There are many places where spray paints can be very useful. Some of the most common brands of spray paint are Krylon and Rustoleum. However, there are many other brands of spray paint that work great including the “store” brands from Sherwin Williams, Ace, Home Depot, and Lowes. Here are a few tips when using spray paint.
1. Whenever possible be sure to spray paint outdoors or in a garage. Spray paint has a very strong odor and the vapors cause many people headaches and other help problems. If you must spray paint indoors, try to do it on a day that you don’t mind leaving some windows open and fans on.
2. Wear some protective clothing. Safety goggles, respirators or masks, and long sleeves (for overspray) are useful in protecting yourself.
3. Cover everything around the object(s) you are painting with drop cloths, old sheets, newspaper, etc. Spray paint has a habit of getting absolutely everywhere!
4. When spraying, make sure to keep the nozzle about 12-14” above the surface and keep your hand moving. Getting too close or moving your hand to slowly will result in paint running and dripping.
5. When you are finished with the project hold the can upside down pointed into a cloth or piece of newspaper and hold down the nozzle until paint stops spraying out. You will know you are done with this step when all you hear is the compressed air coming out. This keeps the nozzle clear so it won’t be clogged the next time you need that can of paint.
Here are some tips on using a spray paint properly on various surfaces:
1. Bare Wood: Always make sure to prime bare wood first with a general spray primer before top coating with the spray paint of your choice. Most spray primers will denote on the outside of the can what applications they are meant for.
2. Metal: Bare metal always needs primed before top coating. I would suggest using a Rustoleum (or similar rust resistant) type of spray primer, then top coating with a spray paint which lists bare metal, and rust control as it’s functions. If the metal is rusty, then you need to sand/wire brush the rust off, then be sure to use rust resistant spray primer and spray paint.
3. Plastic: Many people like to spray paint plastic objects (such as patio chairs) because it is much easier to spray them than to paint the plastic by hand. Spray paint also tends to stick better than your standard exterior paint to plastic. I like to begin by washing the plastic surface, follow this by lightly scuffing the surface with fine sand paper (this helps adhesion, be sure to wipe any dust off before proceeding to the final step), and finally spray paint the plastic surface with Krylon Fusion. Krylon Fusion can be found at most home improvement or paint stores, and is specifically formulated to adhere to and flex with plastic.
1. Whenever possible be sure to spray paint outdoors or in a garage. Spray paint has a very strong odor and the vapors cause many people headaches and other help problems. If you must spray paint indoors, try to do it on a day that you don’t mind leaving some windows open and fans on.
2. Wear some protective clothing. Safety goggles, respirators or masks, and long sleeves (for overspray) are useful in protecting yourself.
3. Cover everything around the object(s) you are painting with drop cloths, old sheets, newspaper, etc. Spray paint has a habit of getting absolutely everywhere!
4. When spraying, make sure to keep the nozzle about 12-14” above the surface and keep your hand moving. Getting too close or moving your hand to slowly will result in paint running and dripping.
5. When you are finished with the project hold the can upside down pointed into a cloth or piece of newspaper and hold down the nozzle until paint stops spraying out. You will know you are done with this step when all you hear is the compressed air coming out. This keeps the nozzle clear so it won’t be clogged the next time you need that can of paint.
Here are some tips on using a spray paint properly on various surfaces:
1. Bare Wood: Always make sure to prime bare wood first with a general spray primer before top coating with the spray paint of your choice. Most spray primers will denote on the outside of the can what applications they are meant for.
2. Metal: Bare metal always needs primed before top coating. I would suggest using a Rustoleum (or similar rust resistant) type of spray primer, then top coating with a spray paint which lists bare metal, and rust control as it’s functions. If the metal is rusty, then you need to sand/wire brush the rust off, then be sure to use rust resistant spray primer and spray paint.
3. Plastic: Many people like to spray paint plastic objects (such as patio chairs) because it is much easier to spray them than to paint the plastic by hand. Spray paint also tends to stick better than your standard exterior paint to plastic. I like to begin by washing the plastic surface, follow this by lightly scuffing the surface with fine sand paper (this helps adhesion, be sure to wipe any dust off before proceeding to the final step), and finally spray paint the plastic surface with Krylon Fusion. Krylon Fusion can be found at most home improvement or paint stores, and is specifically formulated to adhere to and flex with plastic.
Epoxy your garage floor!
This is a very popular thing to do these days and can really improve the functionality and appearance of your garage. However, if done improperly or with the wrong product, you will regret ever finishing that floor! I have had good experiences using the type of garage epoxy that Sherwin Williams sells, but there are many other good products available at many different retailers. One thing to look for when choosing a garage floor epoxy is that you do not need to “etch” the floor with an acidic product before beginning. Many professional high end products require this, however, for most homeowners you will be fine with a product that does not require this. The only way you may need to acid etch your floor is if your garage floor is filthy with oil/grease stains and very old. Acid etching cleans the surface and makes it more porous and rough (ready to accept paint). Ask the person behind the paint desk if you need to do this or not!
Here are the advantages and disadvantages of finishing the floor. Then we will go through the proper way to apply the paint/epoxy on the garage floor.
Finishing the floor in your garage has the following advantages:
Now some disadvantages:
Here are the advantages and disadvantages of finishing the floor. Then we will go through the proper way to apply the paint/epoxy on the garage floor.
Finishing the floor in your garage has the following advantages:
- Improves appearance.
- Ability to wash up spilled substances easier.
- Protects your concrete.
- Did we say looks awesome?
Now some disadvantages:
- Many times it will make your floor more slippery when wet (even if you add non slip substances).
- If not done correctly can ruin the usefulness and appearance of your garage (chipping, hot tire pickup, marks, etc).
When choosing a garage floor paint/epoxy go with the epoxy choice. I have never seen a paint for a garage floor that stands up well to hot tire pick up, no matter what the paint store sales person says. Hot tire pick up is simply when you pull into your garage after being out driving and your tires are hot enough that an inferior product on your garage floor will actually pull off the floor and stick to your tires. Talk about a mess. Look for a two part epoxy kit with color flecks and non-slip additive available in the kit. Your typical kit will include a small can of activator, a large gallon can of the base of the epoxy, colored flecks to add for aesthetic appearance, and non-slip additive. Simply follow the directions on the box to apply the paint.
1. Usually you will want to pressure wash or at a minimum carefully clean off and sweep the surface you are painting (many of these products can be used inside or outside on concrete surfaces). Make sure the surface is very dry and clean of any dust and debris.
2. Mix the activator (small can) into the large can. An electric mixer works great for this but a paint paddle will work fine.
3. Pour the mixture into a paint tray and cut in the area you are painting with a junk brush (it will get ruined).
4. Apply the paint in even strokes working on small areas at a time, using a 3/8” or 1/2” nap roller cover. Many times a garage floor is poured in anywhere from 2-6 separate blocks of concrete. Only paint one block at a time and make sure you don’t paint yourself into a corner.
5. Once you paint on the product you can add the optional color flecks, while the paint is still wet (most people like the look of these flecks).
6. Now the most important part; make sure you purchase the clear sealant that gets painted on overtop the epoxy (usually sold separately). If you do not use this glaze coating, the bottom layer of epoxy will chip, come up, and the flecks will get ripped out. You paint on the clear coat just like you did the bottom epoxy layer. Depending on the type of kit you get, there is normally a non-slip additive you can mix into either the base epoxy coat or the topcoat of glaze. Use the non-slip additive! Without this additive the paint will act like a sheet of ice when wet. You can also add a bit more non-skid additive to the top or bottom coat than comes with the kit, but you will have to purchase this separately.
A couple of things to remember are that you will not be able to drive on the freshly painted surface for a couple of days. Also, try to avoid scraping your snow blower and other power tools on the epoxy coating as much as possible.
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Fixing a drywall hole!
Fixing holes in drywall:
For small holes up to approximately ½” you can simply use spackling compound and a putty knife. Apply the spackle, wait until it dries then sand smooth. Spackling compound will shrink a bit so sometimes you will need to apply a second coat after the first coat dries, you will then need to sand it again before touching up the paint.
For medium holes 1/2” to 3” you will need to get a drywall patch (there are various other methods to repair a hole this size but a drywall patch kit is the simplest). Most of these kits come with a patch that is self adhesive. Simply cut the patch so that it is larger than the size of the hole by about 1” and stick it over the hole (some kits actually enable you to stick the patch through the hole then pull it tight behind the back of the hole enabling you to fill in just the hole). Then you will need drywall compound (which can be found in smaller containers than a gallon) or spackling compound. Using a wide blade putty knife (3” or wider), apply the compound over the patch and a couple of inches surrounding the hole, then after it dries, sand it smooth. You will need to repeat this step a couple of times until you can no longer see where the patch is, sanding after each coat dries. Finally, touch up the paint.
For larger holes 3” and larger it is typically best to replace a section of the drywall. Find where the closest stud is, then cut out a rectangle around the hole including half of the width of the stud. Then, using the cut out piece as a template cut a fresh piece of drywall to fit the hole. Place the drywall in the hole and use drywall screws to attach it to the stud. (It is even better if you cut out a piece that is large enough to expose half of two studs so that the drywall is even firmer in place. Studs are usually positioned 18” apart but could be anywhere between 12” to 24” apart.) Using you “mudding knife” (or large putty knife), apply a thin layer of drywall mud to cover the entire joint. Next, apply paper drywall tape over the mud and using your blade, embed the paper firmly into the mud, scraping off any excess mud. After this dries apply another 2 to 3 coats of drywall mud over the joint tape extending approximately 6” on either side of the joint, sanding between each coat. Once the repair job is smooth you can touch up the paint.
For small holes up to approximately ½” you can simply use spackling compound and a putty knife. Apply the spackle, wait until it dries then sand smooth. Spackling compound will shrink a bit so sometimes you will need to apply a second coat after the first coat dries, you will then need to sand it again before touching up the paint.
For medium holes 1/2” to 3” you will need to get a drywall patch (there are various other methods to repair a hole this size but a drywall patch kit is the simplest). Most of these kits come with a patch that is self adhesive. Simply cut the patch so that it is larger than the size of the hole by about 1” and stick it over the hole (some kits actually enable you to stick the patch through the hole then pull it tight behind the back of the hole enabling you to fill in just the hole). Then you will need drywall compound (which can be found in smaller containers than a gallon) or spackling compound. Using a wide blade putty knife (3” or wider), apply the compound over the patch and a couple of inches surrounding the hole, then after it dries, sand it smooth. You will need to repeat this step a couple of times until you can no longer see where the patch is, sanding after each coat dries. Finally, touch up the paint.
For larger holes 3” and larger it is typically best to replace a section of the drywall. Find where the closest stud is, then cut out a rectangle around the hole including half of the width of the stud. Then, using the cut out piece as a template cut a fresh piece of drywall to fit the hole. Place the drywall in the hole and use drywall screws to attach it to the stud. (It is even better if you cut out a piece that is large enough to expose half of two studs so that the drywall is even firmer in place. Studs are usually positioned 18” apart but could be anywhere between 12” to 24” apart.) Using you “mudding knife” (or large putty knife), apply a thin layer of drywall mud to cover the entire joint. Next, apply paper drywall tape over the mud and using your blade, embed the paper firmly into the mud, scraping off any excess mud. After this dries apply another 2 to 3 coats of drywall mud over the joint tape extending approximately 6” on either side of the joint, sanding between each coat. Once the repair job is smooth you can touch up the paint.
How to Remove Wallpaper!
- The easiest and cheapest way to remove wallpaper is to use warm water and a sponge or rag to dampen the paper. Wait several minutes for the water to permeate the paper and breakdown the glue. Then, simply find a crease in the paper or a loose and pull the paper off in sheets. This sounds too simple and many times it is. Occasionally you will have paper that is this easy to remove, however, most times you will need to use some or all of the following steps in order to fully remove the wallpaper. Remember, if the wall was primed/sized before the wallpaper was hung and as long as the paper was hung correctly then it should come off fairly easily. Also, there are different types of wallpaper and some are easier to peel off than others. Provided this first step does not work for you try the following steps.
- Many times you will need to use a solution to aid in breaking down the glue of the wallpaper. I prefer to use a product called DIFF and mix that with the warm water (follow the directions on the bottle), however, many people use liquid fabric softener or other products which are also effective. Once you have mixed the solution you may want to “score” the wallpaper. Scoring the wallpaper is simply putting tiny holes in the surface of the paper so that the solution can penetrate to the glue backing easier. This can be accomplished in a couple of ways. You can either use a scoring tool or I have heard of some people using steel wool or sandpaper. I prefer the scoring tool which can be found at most home improvement or paint stores. Simply rub the spiky tool over the surface of the paper (getting every square inch is not important) then wet the wall using your sponge or rag soaked in the solution. Allow to sit for 5-10 minutes and begin peeling the paper using a wide blade putty knife or fingers (or whatever works for you). Always try to start at a joint or a torn edge of the paper. Strip off as much of the paper as possible then wet down the remaining paper and glue and peel that off. Done properly this step usually completes the job for me, whether I am dealing with wallpaper or border. However, should this step still not work than try the next step.
- STEAM! You can rent a wallpaper steamer, purchase one at a home improvement store, or try to use the steam function on your iron or garment steamer (the last two are not as effective). I still prefer to score the wallpaper first then using the steamer (follow the directions for how close to the wall you need the steamer head to be) slowly cover small sections at a time of the wall, then immediately (while that section of the wall is wet) scrape off the wallpaper. Continue this for all of the walls. Even after the paper is removed in this manner, you will still need to try a solution (mentioned in step 2) or at a minimum warm water and a rag, to remove the glue still adhered to the wall.
- You thought you were done! Almost, but there is one essential step before you can repaint the wall. Prime the wall with a primer meant for applying after removing wallpaper. This is in case you missed any wallpaper glue on the wall, the primer will allow the paint to stick. If you simply apply paint over wallpaper glue residue you are in for a heap of problems. After you prime you can topcoat with the paint of your choice. Good luck!
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